Los Ilinizas Iliniza Sur & Iliniza Norte

5263m Sur (Cerro Varón)5126m Norte (Tionisa Cerro Hembra)

 

Iliniza Norte is a rocky mountain that is a truly fun climb with some heartstopping scrambles thrown in. It was first climbed by Nicolas Martinez and Villavicencio in 1912. The refuge "Nuevos Horizontes" is at 4650m and has about two dozen bunkbeds, a gas kitchen and water is collected from the stream outside. The average temperature at night is -15°C. This is the refuge used for both mountains.

 

Iliniza Sur is a steep, crevassed mountain and one of the more difficult climbs in Ecuador. It is not advisable for beginners, as some steep sections are approximately 70°. It is strongly recommended to wear a helmet as landslides are a hazard. Jean and Louis Carrel from Whymper's expedition logged the first ascent in 1880. Whymper himself never reached the summit, despite two attempts. However, for the experienced climber, Iliniza Sur is a challenge and what climbing is all about.

Day 1:

Quito-Machachi-Chaupi. We will drive to "La Virgen" as the trailhead is known. From the trailhead it is about 3-4 hours to the refuge. There are a few bulls in this area that are territorial and must be respected.

Day 2:

Illniza Norte: We will start a little before 6am. Average ascent time is 2-3 hours. The first hour is up a sandy scree slope or more adventurous parties can take on the ridge directly. We then traverse the "Paso De Muerte" followed by a scramble to the summit. Back to Quito around 3pm

Day 2 Sur:

At 4 or 5 am the adventure begins. The ascent takes about 4 hours. The mix of climbing both rock and ice is a challenge. Average descent time is 3 hours.